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Seven girls sit on stools in the back corner, smoking cigarettes and looking bored.Six more are off the to the left, just beyond the casino, in the lobby of the Hotel Del Rey. Not much to choose from this early—not for them, not for the men.To glimpse any one of the sea turtles who nest in Costa Rica is an inspiring experience.All are magnificent, mysterious creatures with distinct qualities: the astonishing arribadas of the olive ridley the impressive strength of the loggerhead sea turtle; the nimble maneuvers of the green turtle/pacific green turtle; the gorgeous colors of the hawksbill sea turtle; and the gigantic hulk of the leatherback turtle. Nevertheless, the global populations of sea turtles are declining at an alarming rate.Even natural predators, and many of them, wait for baby turtles to hatch.

Living with machismo Costa Ricans are now joining the growing number of groups throughout Latin America that are pushing back against street harassment and machismo culture.

Wait a little while—say, five o’clock—when the sun’s still clawing through the rain clouds over San José and before the streets are lousy with beggars and peddlers. There are a few and the biggest Asian kid you’ve ever seen, but the rest of the men here are gringos.

There are young guys in tank tops and old guys wearing socks in their sandals and a whole mess of graying middle-aged guys in polos and floral-print shirts.

Also, it’s a gringo joint: There’s a crinkled American flag, like the ones newspapers printed after September 11, taped to one wall, and dozens of shoulder patches, left behind by American cops and firemen, tacked up behind the bar—San Francisco, Chicago, Detroit, New York City, Boynton Beach, Waynesboro, a hundred other little towns you’ve never heard of.

Eleven o’clock on a Monday morning during the Costa Rican rainy season and it’s all white boys at the bar, eight of them, except for one wobbly local named Fernando that the security guys keep trying to pour out the door.

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